The Journey Between: Desperation

The Journey Between Egypt: Desperation

      Everywhere I look, and everywhere we go in Egypt I see people in desperation. Because of the revolution that happened a year ago, many people who rely on tourists for business have been left desperate. There are hardly any tourists here. We can walk for an hour and not see any other fellow foreigners. The shopkeepers, vendors, boat drivers, carriage drivers, and tour guides are all short of jobs and income.  So for us, coming to Egypt at this particular time has left us as “easy targets” for desperate businessmen.

            When we go out we are normally targeted by many people who either want us to buy their products or use their services, and shopkeepers employ many different tactics to try to get tourists to buy stuff.  We’re impelled to say “la shukran” (no thank you in Arabic) countless times every day.

            It’s hard to see all these people, desperate for even a small amount of money, just simply trying to survive. One particular felucca (sailboat) captain told us he hadn’t had a customer in over three months!  Unsurprisingly, horse-drawn carriage drivers have often rode alongside us in the cities trying persistently to get us to come for a ride.  Only once did we actually make the mistake of complying (basically just to pacify the guy).  It turned out to be a disastrous situation that ended up practically ruining our stay in the city.

            The 2011 Egyptian revolution was primarily good because it put an end to the unjust 29 year dictatorship of Hosni Mubarak, but it has simultaneously left many people jobless, homeless and ultimately desperate for survival. We have seen many towns that used to be filled with tourists on the brink of emptiness.  Many previously full hotels are vacant.  Many businesses have been shut down.  The economy is depressed and many people are desperate.

            As we walk the streets of Egypt it’s impossible not to feel compassion for these people.  We want to be able to help them, even in a small way, but it seems like whenever we try to, we always seem to be taken advantage of. When we capitulate and offer someone business, it seems like they’re often dissatisfied with what we initially agree to pay.  They always want more money. And yes, like I said, we want to help, but when you feel like you’re constantly taken advantage of, scammed, lied to, and essentially discriminated against and treated like a ripe for the pickin’ money tree (because of your white skin), your desire to help diminishes rapidly and you resolve finally to walk away. 

            In the midst of all this however, we have never once felt in danger. Despite these people’s desperation we haven’t witnessed any major harmful situations. We have seen men argue and fight between themselves, but minor scuffles and loud confrontations seem to be the order of the day in Egypt.

            I feel sad for this country. It’s a pity that a few small riots a year ago has largely dissuaded foreigners from traveling here.  The radicals always have to ruin it for everybody else.  Truly, Egypt does have a lot to offer. There are many beautiful historical and famous sites.  The fertile fields along the Nile are beautiful and the Red Sea and Mediterranean coasts boast a variety of amazing beaches with spectacular reefs and a colorful array of marine life.  The food is cheap and usually good.  It’s really not such a bad place, but because of last year’s conflict most people have become wary of Egypt.  All in all, the majority of Egypt, in our opinion, is quite safe.

            I must say though, I am glad to leave Egypt. I think we’ve spent enough time here. It’s certainly a hard place to be.  I am not sure if it’s just since the revolution or because Egypt in general is a harder place for foreigners to come and visit.  I have a feeling it’s difficulty may stem from the traditional aggressiveness of the Arabic culture, which tends to be louder, tougher, and crazier than other cultures I’ve been exposed to.  Being in an Islamic nation is also hard. As a believer in Christ it’s easy to feel the spiritual oppression that comes from this prominent religion – especially as a woman.

            I have found it hard to be a woman in Egypt, especially a white, foreign woman.   For one, I cannot go out by my self. I tend to keep my eyes down to avoid eye contact with men. I feel immodest in what I am wearing, even though in Canada it would be completely modest and “safe”.  I find it hard to be comfortable all the time when we are out because I have had a lot of comments directed towards me.  I’ve felt men’s staring eyes, and it makes me uncomfortable, even though Spencer is with me.  We continually get crude and annoying comments directed at us from men as we walk the streets (eg:  “you’re a lucky guy”, or “how many camels” - wanting to ‘buy’ me, or “what a beautiful woman”).  It just makes me feel uncomfortable knowing everyone is looking at me. Obviously we stick out like a sore thumb because we are white foreigners, but even more so now since there aren’t any other foreigners to be ‘targeted’ (I know it sounds like a strong word but this is sometimes how you feel).  Moreover, because I am dressed completely different than the local women I am easy to spot.  I’ve definitely got more skin showing than the local girls, but it’s hard, especially with my limited wardrobe, to completely cover myself in this intense heat!

            I feel bad for the women who have to wear the head covering, whether just the headscarf or the complete face covering that leaves only the eyes showing. It seems so oppressive, like they’re trying to hide.  Sometimes it makes sense though.  Sometimes I feel like I want to hide too, especially as a white woman (like I keep saying).  I have been in crowds of people where I feel completely singled out. It is so easy to feel like a spotlight is shining on you. Everywhere we go we have people greet us, talk to us, or try to sell us something. We haven’t really had a moment’s peace since coming to Egypt. The only way to escape this is to “hide” in the hotel room!

            But Egypt is a desperate place. People are desperate for business, for attention, for money, for a better life! We can see the look of desperation on people’s faces as we walk the streets and go to different places. There are people on the streets begging for some extra change. A lot of the time the beggars are women out looking for anything to help them survive. You can see and even feel their desperation when you walk past. You feel guilty being a “privileged” foreigner.  In truth, you have more material prosperity than they could ever even dream of. When I see the people on the streets begging, looking for help, I wish there was something more that we could do.

            Our time in Egypt has not been fruitless and worthless. God has shown us so much. He has yet again opened our eyes to the realities that so many people are faced with. We were able to show kindness and compassion to people. We were able to share our faith with some. We were given our first taste of the realities of poverty and were reminded yet again how much we have to be thankful for.

             I know, ultimately, that the people of Egypt are not desperate only for physical materials. I know that in their hearts they are seeking a savior - someone to save them, to rescue them from their desperation and emptiness. Not only is the country empty, but people are empty.  People are without the Holy Spirit and without the love of God. They need the hope and salvation that comes only through a great and loving Father in Heaven. More than a healing of their land, the Egyptian people they need a healing of their spirits.

            I pray for the redemption of the souls here.  I pray for the countless millions lost in the Muslim faith.  I pray for them to be found by our glorious and gracious King Jesus. I pray that men, women and children will come to faith in our Lord, and that they would be filled with the Holy Spirit.  I pray that their minds would be renewed, and their hearts transformed. I pray for an outpouring of God’s grace on this land, that He would water it with His love, grace and mercy. This country needs a savior. They just had their first ever democratic elections over the past few days. They are searching for a leader, for a man to rescue them from their depravity. If only they would realize that their Savior is Jesus. If only they could see that their problems are much deeper than surface situations.  Then they would see that their lives are meaningless without a relationship with God the Father (Muslims believe that a personal, intimate relationship with God is inconceivable and ridiculous).

            I pray for Egypt. I pray that Christians would be bold enough to fight for their faith. I pray that the real followers of Christ would flood this nation and that they would rise up and take a stand and boldly display the glory of God each and every day. I pray that souls would be redeemed, and that people’s lives would be changed by the power of the Gospel.

            Please remember to pray for Egypt, especially as they wait and anticipate their new president. Pray for peace, for justice, and for restoration. Keep this nation in your hearts and prayers over these next few months as they undergo governmental change. Pray that the new president would create positive change for this country. But pray even more so that people will meet Jesus and that Egypt will experience a mighty outpouring of God’s grace (as they have already experienced God’s terrible power - *see book of Exodus).  Pray that the people of this oppressed nation will finally turn to Christ as Lord and Savior!