Favourties of our Middle East Adventure

What has been your favorite/best on our Middle East Adventure…

Spencer:

1)    Host Accommodation: Gene and Jessie’sAqaba Jordan

2)    Restaurant: Gizain tep- Selcuk Turkey

3)    Cold Drink: Shweeps apple- Egypt

4)    Nature experience: Wadi Rum Jordan

5)    Place to walk: boardwalk Akko Israel

6)    Dessert/Sweets: Desserts we had at Nese’s house- Turkey

7)    Beach: Tel Aviv Israel

8)    Town: Selcuk, Turkey

9)    Culture: Turkish

10) Host experience: everyone

11) Mode of transportation: buses

12) Ancient ruins: Ephesus

13) Weather: Akko & Tiberias Israel

14)  Hot drink: Gene and Jessies American style coffee- Jordan

15) Country: Turkey

16) Bakery: Ram Bakery Akko Israel

17) Falafel: Egyptian man in Akko Israel

                 18) Shawarma: by the mosque where they dip the bread in the meat fat- Selcuk Turkey

19) Hike: among the wildflowers and the hills in Selcuk Turkey

20) Swimming spot: Dahab Egypt

21) Miracle: Getting a ride from Akko to Tiberias with Sue and Howie and then because of that they were able to create a new ministry opportunity with our new host family

22) Famous site: Garden Tomb Jerusalem, Israel

23) Music: Turkish pop

24) Bed: Gene &Jessie’s bunk bed - Jordan

25) Bathroom: Gaddis Hotel, Luxor-Egpyt

26) Market: Selcuk- Turkey

27) Breakfasts: Easter Sunday Breastfast with Bishara’s family,  Nazareth, Israel

28) Time with God: everyday

29) Church experience: Istanbul House Of Prayer

30) Hostel: Greenpackers, Mitzpe Ramon, Israel

                 31) Conversation: Canadian Christian couple Mike and Cathy- Selcuk Turkey

32) Funny story: “Russian Invasion” at the Russian Church in Akko, Israel. We almost got locked in the church when these two Russians were done cleaning the Church. I went banging on the door to get to them to unlock the door from the outside, so we could get out! This gogglelieyed Russian man who spoke no English tried to communicate with us. It was a had to be there moment for sure!

33) Stranger: man who helped with metro in Cairo, Egypt

               34) Scamming story: Two Ali’s who drove the carriages that “scammed us” in Luxor Egpyt

35) Fast food: GAD, Cairo, Egypt

                    36) Spontaneous decision: to leave Tel Aviv a day early

37) Trip/ journey: Akko to Tiberias Israel

38) Money currency: Israels bills

                       39)Phrases: “Afietosin” enjoy the meal Turkish

40) Travel layovers: seeing Justin in NY

41) Airport: JFK New York

42) Day: days in Selcuk

43) Night: Dinner at Mike and Cathy’s

                 44) Things about Turkey: Food, people, flowers

45) Things about Israel: Jerusalem

46) Things about Jordan: Gene & Jessie and their kids, and Wadi Rum (the desert)

                47) Things about Egypt: Pyramids, snorkeling

                          48) Tourists we met: Thomas from Germany while we are in Mitzpte Ramon Israel

49) Relaxing moment: sitting and reading on Nese’s Shepard House Guesthouse  roof- Selcuk

50) Animal encounter: turtles in the pond by the Arteimus temple Selcuk Turkey

      Leah:

                      1) Host Accommodation: Gene and Jessie's Jordan, and Gulers Bodrum Turkey

                 2)    Restaurant: Gizain Tep- Selcuk Turkey

3)    Cold Drink: Mint lemon water- Israel

                       4)   Nature experience: Mitzpe Ramon (hiking) and Wadi Rum (desert)

5)    Place to walk: board walk Akko Israel

6)    Dessert/Sweets: any Baklava

7)    Beach: Dahab Egypt

8)    Town: Selcuk  Turkey

9)    Culture: Turkish

10) Host experience: all of them!

11) Mode of transportation: ferries

12) Ancient ruins: Ephesus Turkey

13) Weather: Tiberias Israel (not too hot and not too cold!)

14)  Hot drink: Turkish tea

15) Country: Turkey and Israel

16) Bakery: Ram Bakery Akko Israel

17) Falafel: Egyptian guy in Akko Israel

18) Shawarma: Selcuk by the sweets shop, loved the sauce they put on it

19) Hike: In the “Crater” Miztpe Ramon Israel

20) Swimming spot: Dahab Egypt

21) Miracle: trip Bodrum to Istanbul. A friend of our host spent the night the night before we were leaving. It ended up she was on the same flight as us in the morning. We got a free ride to the airport. Once we landed in Istanbul she found us the right bus to get on to go to the other airport!

22) Famous site: Garden Tomb Jerusalem  Israel

23) Music: Turkish

24) Bed: Gene and Jessie’s bunk bed, surprisingly really comfy- Aqaba Jordan

25) Bathroom: Gene and Jessie’s, bathtub shower so water wasn’t all over the floor- Aqaba Jordan

26) Market: Selcuk, Turkey

27) Breakfasts: Guler’s house, cooked by housekeeper Gunai! Bodrum, Turkey

                28) Time with God: hiking in Mitzpe Israel

29) Church experience: Selcuk, Turkey

30) Hostel:  Green backpackers, Mitzpe Ramon, Israel

                              31) Conversation: Encouraging talks with Christian Canadians, 

                              Mike, Cathy and Jen in   Selcuk Turkey

                     32) Funny story: Huge army guy at Bodrum airport. We saw him come through 

                     security   and I said “it would be funny if he sat next to us”. Then I went to the

                     bathroom. When I came out he was sitting directly across from us. I tried not to 

                      burst out laughing, but it was super funny.

                       33)Stranger: Little boy Mohammad that we met on the train from Luxor to Cairo Egypt

34) Scamming story: perfume story-El Quesir, Egypt

35) Fast food: GAD, Cairo, Egypt

                            36) Spontaneous decision: staying in Selcuk longer

                      37) Trip/ journey: Wadi Rum to Aqaba Jordan because I was looking forward to 

                     going back to Gene and Jessie’s house!

38) Money currency: Turkish

                          39) Phrases: “Ha bee bee” which means love in Arabic and "No Problem, God knows"

                         which Nese used to say all the time!

40) Travel layovers: Greece Airport- one more country checked off our list!

41) Airport: JFK New York- got to see Justin

42) Day: Birthday! Biking around the Sea of Galilee, cake and ice cream!

43) Night: date night when we “splurged” and went to a nice restaurant for dinner Selcuk Turkey

44) Things about Turkey: everything. The people are funny, the food is good, and we met so many awesome people!

45) Things about Israel: Pita and hummus, meeting great Christians

46) Things about Jordan: Gene and Jessie’s! And our overnight adventure in the desert.

47) Things about Egypt: snorkeling, cheap falafels, and lots of tea!

                    48) Tourists we met: Martin from the USA. We invited him to eat at our table for 

                    dinner since he was all by himself. We had an interesting conversation with him.

                   49) Relaxing moment: Sand dune in Wadi Rum

50) Animal encounter: The enchanting white horse on the hill that was covered with wildflowers in Selcuk

May 25: Transition Time

May 25: Transition Time

            This is it, our last official day in the Middle East.  It’s difficult to know exactly what to write to sufficiently summarize our journey.  For one, it’s certainly been a multilayered learning experience.  Each country we visited is so deep and rich in culture and history.  Likewise, this part of the world is also incredibly complex, especially with regards to the overarching oppressive spiritual situation.  In my opinion, from what I know about the world and from what I’ve studied in Scripture (a reliable historical and morally logical text), spiritual realities are the most significant realities, and accordingly they are the realities we should strive to base our lives upon.  Explicitly, this is Spiritual Reality; that we are depraved, rebellious sinners, that we deserve eternal death, that God sent His only begotten Son Jesus Christ to earth on a rescue mission to redeem a lost and dying humanity, that the world is entirely hopeless apart from Christ’s atoning sacrifice, that Christ will one day return in glory to judge the living and the dead, to right all wrongs, and to make all things new.  This all-encompassing Reality is the central driving force in my life.  It impels, motivates, and directs every move I make – every thought, every word, every deed.

            So then, how does this Reality specifically apply to the situation in the Middle East?  There are a few ‘big’ noticeable things worth mentioning here.  First and foremost, and obviously, the centrality and preeminence of Islam in this part of the world is unrivaled.  Here, you are basically born Muslim, and if you are not a practicing Muslim, at least you are a Muslim by orientation.  This dark and domineering religious reality drives and shapes societal institutions, cultural characteristics, and national constituents.  Ultimately, Islam controls people’s lives, and thus it tyrannically serves as the biggest, cruelest, most blinding deception in the Middle East.

            Israel is different but similar.  The majority of God’s chosen people have wandered astray, or at least, they’ve been willingly left behind.  Judaism is obsolete.  The Old Testament law is only necessary now in making us aware of our own depravity, aware of our hopelessness apart from Christ, and aware of our desperate need for a savior.  The law, in and of itself, can never save us.  Under the New Covenant of God in Christ, salvation comes by grace through faith in the Son of God who loved us and gave Himself up for us.  Many Jews still reject this.  They reject the divine Messianic claims of Jesus and so they are blind, depressed, and largely, miserable.  The Muslims are trying to ‘be good’ to get to God, and the Jews likewise.  It’s all the same dead, man-made religion.

            In the midst of all this, God through His Church has gained footholds here and there throughout the region.  There are pockets of true believing Christians throughout the Middle East, and though their numbers are few, their resiliency, perseverance, passion and determination is strong.  Along the way we’ve has the privilege of meeting believers (both local and foreign) who’ve committed their lives to working and living in this tough area.  These people have been both inspiring and encouraging.  It’s so spectacular to know that as Christians, we have family all over the world.  Even more spectacular is the reality that God is building His church throughout the globe, and Death and Hades can do absolutely nothing to stop Him.  Citizens from every tribe, tongue, and nation will be represented one day before the throne of our good and gracious King Jesus – this is undeniably inevitable…

            All in all, I’d like to come back here some day.  I know there’s plenty more to see and experience.  I’m definitely drawn to this part of the world.  Even in spite of the spiritual darkness it’s still so full to the brim with color and culture and vibrancy and beauty.  I hope and pray God sends us back.  Who knows what the future holds?

The Journey Between: Desperation

The Journey Between Egypt: Desperation

      Everywhere I look, and everywhere we go in Egypt I see people in desperation. Because of the revolution that happened a year ago, many people who rely on tourists for business have been left desperate. There are hardly any tourists here. We can walk for an hour and not see any other fellow foreigners. The shopkeepers, vendors, boat drivers, carriage drivers, and tour guides are all short of jobs and income.  So for us, coming to Egypt at this particular time has left us as “easy targets” for desperate businessmen.

            When we go out we are normally targeted by many people who either want us to buy their products or use their services, and shopkeepers employ many different tactics to try to get tourists to buy stuff.  We’re impelled to say “la shukran” (no thank you in Arabic) countless times every day.

            It’s hard to see all these people, desperate for even a small amount of money, just simply trying to survive. One particular felucca (sailboat) captain told us he hadn’t had a customer in over three months!  Unsurprisingly, horse-drawn carriage drivers have often rode alongside us in the cities trying persistently to get us to come for a ride.  Only once did we actually make the mistake of complying (basically just to pacify the guy).  It turned out to be a disastrous situation that ended up practically ruining our stay in the city.

            The 2011 Egyptian revolution was primarily good because it put an end to the unjust 29 year dictatorship of Hosni Mubarak, but it has simultaneously left many people jobless, homeless and ultimately desperate for survival. We have seen many towns that used to be filled with tourists on the brink of emptiness.  Many previously full hotels are vacant.  Many businesses have been shut down.  The economy is depressed and many people are desperate.

            As we walk the streets of Egypt it’s impossible not to feel compassion for these people.  We want to be able to help them, even in a small way, but it seems like whenever we try to, we always seem to be taken advantage of. When we capitulate and offer someone business, it seems like they’re often dissatisfied with what we initially agree to pay.  They always want more money. And yes, like I said, we want to help, but when you feel like you’re constantly taken advantage of, scammed, lied to, and essentially discriminated against and treated like a ripe for the pickin’ money tree (because of your white skin), your desire to help diminishes rapidly and you resolve finally to walk away. 

            In the midst of all this however, we have never once felt in danger. Despite these people’s desperation we haven’t witnessed any major harmful situations. We have seen men argue and fight between themselves, but minor scuffles and loud confrontations seem to be the order of the day in Egypt.

            I feel sad for this country. It’s a pity that a few small riots a year ago has largely dissuaded foreigners from traveling here.  The radicals always have to ruin it for everybody else.  Truly, Egypt does have a lot to offer. There are many beautiful historical and famous sites.  The fertile fields along the Nile are beautiful and the Red Sea and Mediterranean coasts boast a variety of amazing beaches with spectacular reefs and a colorful array of marine life.  The food is cheap and usually good.  It’s really not such a bad place, but because of last year’s conflict most people have become wary of Egypt.  All in all, the majority of Egypt, in our opinion, is quite safe.

            I must say though, I am glad to leave Egypt. I think we’ve spent enough time here. It’s certainly a hard place to be.  I am not sure if it’s just since the revolution or because Egypt in general is a harder place for foreigners to come and visit.  I have a feeling it’s difficulty may stem from the traditional aggressiveness of the Arabic culture, which tends to be louder, tougher, and crazier than other cultures I’ve been exposed to.  Being in an Islamic nation is also hard. As a believer in Christ it’s easy to feel the spiritual oppression that comes from this prominent religion – especially as a woman.

            I have found it hard to be a woman in Egypt, especially a white, foreign woman.   For one, I cannot go out by my self. I tend to keep my eyes down to avoid eye contact with men. I feel immodest in what I am wearing, even though in Canada it would be completely modest and “safe”.  I find it hard to be comfortable all the time when we are out because I have had a lot of comments directed towards me.  I’ve felt men’s staring eyes, and it makes me uncomfortable, even though Spencer is with me.  We continually get crude and annoying comments directed at us from men as we walk the streets (eg:  “you’re a lucky guy”, or “how many camels” - wanting to ‘buy’ me, or “what a beautiful woman”).  It just makes me feel uncomfortable knowing everyone is looking at me. Obviously we stick out like a sore thumb because we are white foreigners, but even more so now since there aren’t any other foreigners to be ‘targeted’ (I know it sounds like a strong word but this is sometimes how you feel).  Moreover, because I am dressed completely different than the local women I am easy to spot.  I’ve definitely got more skin showing than the local girls, but it’s hard, especially with my limited wardrobe, to completely cover myself in this intense heat!

            I feel bad for the women who have to wear the head covering, whether just the headscarf or the complete face covering that leaves only the eyes showing. It seems so oppressive, like they’re trying to hide.  Sometimes it makes sense though.  Sometimes I feel like I want to hide too, especially as a white woman (like I keep saying).  I have been in crowds of people where I feel completely singled out. It is so easy to feel like a spotlight is shining on you. Everywhere we go we have people greet us, talk to us, or try to sell us something. We haven’t really had a moment’s peace since coming to Egypt. The only way to escape this is to “hide” in the hotel room!

            But Egypt is a desperate place. People are desperate for business, for attention, for money, for a better life! We can see the look of desperation on people’s faces as we walk the streets and go to different places. There are people on the streets begging for some extra change. A lot of the time the beggars are women out looking for anything to help them survive. You can see and even feel their desperation when you walk past. You feel guilty being a “privileged” foreigner.  In truth, you have more material prosperity than they could ever even dream of. When I see the people on the streets begging, looking for help, I wish there was something more that we could do.

            Our time in Egypt has not been fruitless and worthless. God has shown us so much. He has yet again opened our eyes to the realities that so many people are faced with. We were able to show kindness and compassion to people. We were able to share our faith with some. We were given our first taste of the realities of poverty and were reminded yet again how much we have to be thankful for.

             I know, ultimately, that the people of Egypt are not desperate only for physical materials. I know that in their hearts they are seeking a savior - someone to save them, to rescue them from their desperation and emptiness. Not only is the country empty, but people are empty.  People are without the Holy Spirit and without the love of God. They need the hope and salvation that comes only through a great and loving Father in Heaven. More than a healing of their land, the Egyptian people they need a healing of their spirits.

            I pray for the redemption of the souls here.  I pray for the countless millions lost in the Muslim faith.  I pray for them to be found by our glorious and gracious King Jesus. I pray that men, women and children will come to faith in our Lord, and that they would be filled with the Holy Spirit.  I pray that their minds would be renewed, and their hearts transformed. I pray for an outpouring of God’s grace on this land, that He would water it with His love, grace and mercy. This country needs a savior. They just had their first ever democratic elections over the past few days. They are searching for a leader, for a man to rescue them from their depravity. If only they would realize that their Savior is Jesus. If only they could see that their problems are much deeper than surface situations.  Then they would see that their lives are meaningless without a relationship with God the Father (Muslims believe that a personal, intimate relationship with God is inconceivable and ridiculous).

            I pray for Egypt. I pray that Christians would be bold enough to fight for their faith. I pray that the real followers of Christ would flood this nation and that they would rise up and take a stand and boldly display the glory of God each and every day. I pray that souls would be redeemed, and that people’s lives would be changed by the power of the Gospel.

            Please remember to pray for Egypt, especially as they wait and anticipate their new president. Pray for peace, for justice, and for restoration. Keep this nation in your hearts and prayers over these next few months as they undergo governmental change. Pray that the new president would create positive change for this country. But pray even more so that people will meet Jesus and that Egypt will experience a mighty outpouring of God’s grace (as they have already experienced God’s terrible power - *see book of Exodus).  Pray that the people of this oppressed nation will finally turn to Christ as Lord and Savior!

May 24 (Leah's)

 

Our last full day in Cairo…in Egypt…on  our trip…Wow! Time goes by fast, but also, I feel like we have been traveling for a really long time!

            After we ate our breakfast this morning, we met with Antony, the British guy who we were going to go to Garbage City with. We all jumped in a taxi together and when we go to “garbage city” you could tell we were there. It is a place in Cairo where a population of Coptic Christian have been giving the “task” by the Cairo government to collect, sort, and recycle all the garbage in Cairo! This is basically a slum where people are living in piles of garbage. The men usually go throughout Cairo in either carts driven by donkeys or by trucks to collect the garbage. They then bring it back to the “Garbage City” on the outskirts of Cairo, where it is sorted into piles, MASSIVE piles! One building is full of cardboard, another plastic bottles, another clothes. And on and on it goes. Garbage, garbage, garbage. We walked through narrow streets, lined with garbage. Children walk bare foot and play in the garbage, dogs, cats, donkeys roam the streets. Groups of women sort through the piles. It’s a pretty sad place, definitely an eye opening experience. I don’t think I could ever live in a place like this, unless completely forced to!

            We had lots of kids coming up to us. Some asking for money, some just wanting to say to the apparently “weird white people” for walking through their very dirty, smelly and disgusting streets. We had men and women greet us. Some weren’t so happy that we were there, but for the most part, we received kind greetings. One boy shouted words you wouldn’t want to repeat at us when we told him we had no money for him. He turned and started running as he yelled these words, obviously aware that they were words you shouldn’t say!

            I felt a little awkward wondering the streets. I felt compassion and pity for these people, but also at the same time relieved that I didn’t have to live in conditions like that. You would be dirty and smelly all the time!

            The nice thing about this area is that it is a “Christian” district. Coptic Christian. So the women are free to have their heads uncovered which meant that I didn’t feel as “immodest’ with my head uncovered. All of a sudden though as we were walking the streets it turned into the Muslim area, we could tell only by the women because now all their heads were covered. It was like we crossed an invisible line that went from the Coptic Christian area to the Muslim area.

            We went to a famous church in the Coptic Christian area. It is literally build into the rock mountain. It was pretty cool. There was a smaller church, and then another big one. The big one was built coliseum style. There were cool carvings on the “cave” walls, pictures of Jesus dying on the cross, rising from the dead and so on.

            After our time in Garbage City, we went with Antony to this restaurant close to our hotel where they serve a traditional local dish called Kushari. It is like a layered meal. It starts off with rice, then noodles, then lentils, chickpeas, tomato sauce and fried onions. It was good. I added a bit too much hot chili sauce to mine though! Spencer and I shared a cold rice pudding dessert.

            Back at the hotel we enjoyed a cup of tea and crackers with Anthony before he headed off. We spent the remainder of the afternoon in the hotel.            

            We went to GAD again for dinner. They seem to like the fact that we keep coming back! Tomorrow night will be our last time, just before heading off to the airport! We stopped to get some sweets after dinner….. I know we sound like pigs!....Have to indulge a little bit before our year without sweets….No, I am kidding, I am sure we will for sure have sweets in Tanzania!

            As for our last night in Cairo I am pretty sure I will be glad we are going, but all in all, it hasn’t been too too bad! We have had some good days, just wondering around. But to leave Egypt, I think I am ready for that. I am done being overly hassled, lied to, taken advantage of. Not to mention, I am pretty sure I have probably inhaled enough cigarette smoke that is equivalent to me smoking about 20 packages of cigarettes a day! I am almost deaf from the incessant, blasting, obnoxious car horns that are always honking! I have almost got hit by a car every other time I cross the road. To go out walking the streets basically means going through a giant obstacle course as you avoid donkeys, vendors, cars, people, carts, and other random objects on the sidewalks and roads! So I am glad to leave all this behind. Hopefully Tanzania isn’t as bad! But no matter what, I am sure we will enjoy our time!

           

May 23 (Leah's)

 

Today was a lazy day. I didn’t really want to do anything for the first part of the day. We had breakfast, drank tea, wrote, and then I did some major hand-washing. Who knew you could sweat so much just washing clothes- must be good for me!

            We went out to go to the supermarket and fruit market. We also stopped at a bookstore and finally found an English section that had more than just textbooks. We bought a book each since we are quite low on reading material. We ended up eating lunch quite late. I had raisin bran with fruit and Spencer got an Egyptian pancake to go from GAD. We ate our lunch at the hotel and then we skyped with mom and dad Gray.

            We spent some more time hanging out at the hotel. I did a bit more hand-washing. I will have to finish the rest tomorrow. We chatted with a man from the States but who is Palestinian by ethnicity. We talked of the Egyptian election that was happening today and tomorrow, about the Israel and Palestine dispute, and about being a tourist in Egypt and how hard it is.

            We are going to go and see Garbage City tomorrow with a British guy we met at our hotel. He has lived in Cairo for 9 months working with a NGO doing refugee work. He is now on “holiday”. He speaks Arabic and he knows the city, so it will be good to go with him.

We are going to try another place for dinner. Another food-chain restaurant that smelt good when we walked past it this afternoon. Hopefully GAD doesn’t miss us too much!

            It is weird to think that in three days we will be Tanzania! I am getting really excited, but I also hope that I am not idealizing it because Egypt has been hard….I hope we don’t get let down…but that would be our own selfishness that would let us down….I hope I am not expecting things to be “great” and then find out that things are hard…But I guess that is all part of life’s lessons and journey….I am sure we will have a great experience in Tanzania. I know God will continue to lead and guide us, and that He will also teach us, stretch us, and purify us!

            After dinner we went to buy some sweets- even though we didn’t “need” them. It ended up being more expensive than what we expected…we passed a lady (in a burka) with three children sitting on the sidewalk selling small Kleenex packages- we gave her some small money. As we kept walking back to the hotel Spencer felt like he should give her our sweets, so we walked back, and he gave them to her, and she accepted with a big smile on her face. It is so hard to really help people sometimes. You feel like your small deeds don’t mean much, but I hope and pray that every time we reach out to someone in a big or small way, that they get a glimpse of the love and compassion of our heavenly father.

            I sometimes feel horrible walking by these men, women, and children that are on the streets, begging for anything they can get. Sometimes we have money to give, some times we don’t. I admit, that some times I walk by and try to pretend that I don’t see them- because I feel so bad and guilty and I don’t know how to Really help them. I wish we could do something more…..I guess that is why I am really looking forward to going to Tanzania- to be in a place where we can hopefully do something to better the good of the people there…..And God willing, hopefully see some people’s lives changes through faith in Jesus Christ!

May 22

May 22

            I prayed last night that the Holy Spirit would help me be more like Jesus.  I long to be more like Him.  I long for less of me.  It’s the only way I’ll ever truly be happy.  To be more like Christ is to embody the fruits of the Holy Spirit – love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, gentleness, and self-control.  I’ve got to keep in mind that God is all about our character-growth, or, more appropriately, our complete transformation – conformity to Christ in every way; absolute surrender.  On the one hand I pray for help to be more like Jesus and then I get perturbed and upset when He answers my prayers.  Silly.  Lord, help me.

            Today was another typical day in Egypt, which, I might add, is characterized mainly by inconveniences, annoying people, hassling, and honking.  We’ve barely had a moment’s peace.  We’ve barely had a moment completely to ourselves.  We’ve barely gone through a day without being misled, ripped off, and lied to.  CHARACTER GROWTH.  God keeps answering my prayers.

            Today we decided we would go see an English movie in theatres.  There are numerous cinema complexes in Cairo but only a few of them show movies in English (with Arabic subtitles of course).  I wanted to see Marvel’s The Avengers and figured I would be deprived of new movies for a year so I was adamant about seeing the movie.  We google-mapped the location of the theatre – only about 4 km from our hotel.  We crossed a bridge over the Nile, got led toward a theatre (the wrong one) by another self-proclaimed ‘tour guide,’ and subsequently wound up at an ‘Egyptian Market,’ which is really just a store with a bunch of ‘authentic’ Egyptian paraphernalia like small statues and papyrus paper (for tourists).  The ‘tour guides’ and shopkeepers are always in league it seems.  Anyways, rather than getting cornered in the shop, we briskly made our escape.  We wound up at a theatre and discovered (upon inquiring at the ticket booth) that there were no English movies.  We asked where our theatre was.  “You must take taxi.  Very far.”  So google maps failed us yet again (directions were correct, but impossible to follow in this crazy city).  We took a taxi to the right theatre.

            We took our seats.  We had to move (they have assigned seating).  The movie started.  The movie stopped.  The previews started.  The previews stopped.  In fact, the power for the entire cinema complex blacked out.  We sat in the dark for nearly 45 min with a bunch of noisy Egyptian teenagers flashing their cell phones here and there and giggling and pushing each other around.  It was a mad house.  Then the movie started again – part way through.  I figured we would just have to imagine the beginning.  And then, the movie started!  It was difficult to hear because the sound was turned low and it was hard to focus on the screen because the 3D was wonky but we made it through the movie and I think I understood the plot. 

            We went to Gad again for dinner.  We got our pictures taken with the manager and some of the employees (because they asked).

            Leah suggested we should hide in our small hotel room for the remainder of our time here.  I’d like to think that’d be a good idea but then we’d probably miss out on all the character growth God’s still got in store for us.   

May 21 (Leah's)

May 21, 2012

            I couldn’t believe it was 7:45 am when the alarm went off this morning.  It felt like 4:00 am. But we got up, ate breakfast and made our way to the mini-bus station. We saw on the internet that you could catch a cheap local bus from here and get to the pyramids. So we thought we would give it a try.  Sure enough, we got a mini bus taxi (like an old hippy Volkswagen van).

            The driver dropped us off at the ticket office and we got our tickets. A man inside the ticket building started to follow us and said he was a “watchman” assigned to keep tourists safe.  He told us that he wasn’t a tour guide and that he wasn’t doing this for money, but that he was going to show us around and tell us about the pyramids. We knew that he was lying.  It didn’t feel right….  We tried many times to tell him we wanted to go alone, again he said he was our watchman. We said, look there are some other white people, they don’t have a watch man. After about 10min we got him to realized we didn’t want him “tagging” along with us. And we escaped him.

            We enjoyed walking around the pyramids. They are huge. There are three big ones and 6 smaller ones. And also the Sphinx- the lion with a human Pharaoh head. We were there for about 2 hours. We said La Shukran (no thank you) many times to men trying to get us to ride their camels and horses at a “good Egyptian price” We told them we had two good legs and we could walk!

            We climbed up this small sand dune and gazed at the pyramids. Such a cool place, but also sad, thinking of all the slaves needed to build a place like this. There wasn’t too many tourists at the sites so we were able to walk around and not have to be lost in groups. One man trying to get us to buy something told Spencer what a beautiful Queen of Canada he had, and then he asked Spencer if he would sell me for a million camels! Spencer could have been a very rich man, but I am so glad he didn’t sell me to that old man! 

            We took a 2 mini buses and the metro to get back to the hotel. A man on the last mini bus really helped us! He was going to the metro after we got dropped off by the mini bus (it didn’t go all the way to where we needed to go) and he took us to the metro station, bought our tickets (one Egyptian Pound = $0.16cents) , then he walked us to the platform, got on the metro train with us, and then showed us our stop when it came time, and he continued on till his stop. One of the first real times any one has really gone out of their way, and paid money, to help us! A true taste of friendliness. Although in Cairo, many people have helped us by giving us directions and have been more friendly, this man just made us really appreciative of genuine helpfulness.

            We had raisin bran, yogurt and bananas for lunch followed by a cup of tea. We talked to a family from Bangladesh that is staying at our hotel and they told us about a Carrefour grocery store here in Cairo. I thought we could get some items that have been hard to find there, so we google mapped it and thought it was quite “close”.           

            We took the metro train to get there. WOW what a crazy experience. We were at a main station and we were standing waiting for the train. Once it came it was like a mad fight to get on. I was literally being pushed from all directions. This older couple was trying to help us, motioning us to keep going. And to think, we were standing right in front of the door, but with the people coming off and the rest of the multitude trying to get on behind us, it became quite the event. I was basically sandwiched completely up against strange men. And when we got on the train for the first 2 or so stations it was so crowded that I was pressed up again from all sides….soon it wasn’t that crowded though….but what an experience!

            From the map we thought we only had about a 15min walk (the map said the whole trip was 12km from hotel to Carrefour). Since we covered most of the distance with the metro we thought for sure it was close…….we were wrong…….very wrong….we walked, and walked, and walked…and when we asked people they said it was very far away….we ended up along a highway and since there was no side walk we decided to run as to make it quicker to get off this main road…..

            We ended up taking a taxi….it was like 15min in the taxi, so we would have been walking for a long time….the whole trip seemed kind of futile, as we couldn’t even get most of the stuff on the list….But whatever J I bought some fruity mentos to enjoy.

            We decided to take a taxi all the way to the metro so we didn’t have to walk and get lost trying to find the metro…which was a long, long ways away…we took the train back to the hotel street and we went yet again to GAD for dinner. We were pooped, we had a long day, in the sun, with lots of walking (and running for our lives). I think the rest of the night will be spent in the room.

May 20 (Leah's)

May 20

            Well again today we walked, walked and walked. We walked the streets of Cairo for about 4hours today.  We ended up walking down some pretty obscure streets that I am pretty sure “white” folk don’t walk down. We walked down a welding and metal fabricating side street, we were in the midst of men carrying long metal poles, welding, and donkeys pulling carts loaded down with metal pieces. We walked under and underpass that was so busy. Traffic was crazy! Horns honking in every direction. We walked down many streets lined with vendors.           

            Thankfully we found our way to a place where we could find our way back to the area where we are familiar with. We found the grocery store we went in the first day and we bought some goods (nutella for Spencer, a traditional hot drink mix, milk and cereal, yogurt and orange juice!). We also bought some more yummy peaches from the fuirt market.

            For lunch we stopped at a pizza place and we shared a small pizza loaded with cheese and some small veggies -15EP (less than $3). We had quite a few people say “welcome”, “hello” and the like to us. Again not that much hassling!

            We stayed in the room from about 4-6pm. We skyped with mom and dad Gray! We love Skype- especially when it works good. It is nice to hear about the news going on back “home” in Canada.

            I was able to have a cup of nice tea with milk since our purchases at the grocery store- so nice and relaxing!

            For dinner we went to the same place as last night, the chain restaurant called GAD. It is cheap, clean, has a toilet, and has a huge menu. We had a small dinner. I got 2 big falafels and a plate of raw veggies. Spencer got a not so yummy baked pasta, but it wasn’t too too bad! We walked to get some dessert to share in the room along with our drink mix we bought at the grocery store. Tomorrow I think we are going to attempt to go to the Pyramids via local bus. I hope we can make it there, hassle free, and “pain” free!

May 19

May 19

We hiked around Cairo and tried our best to avoid getting run over.  So far I actually quite like this city.  Even though Leah and I are probably two of maybe ten white people in a metropolis of about 15 million people, it’s easier for us to get lost in the crowd here and so we don’t get hassled nearly as much.  Still, it’s impossible for us not to stick out like a sore thumb and accordingly we’ve received numerous welcomes from onlookers.  “Welcome to Egypt!” 

 We saw some interesting things today: a vendor selling pigs’ feet, a whole cow freshly slaughtered and sprawled out on the sidewalk, a cyclist with an enormous tray of pita balancing on his head weaving his way precariously in and out of traffic, etc. etc. etc.  In a city this big in a country like Egypt in the continent of Africa there’s really no end to the variety of sites, sounds, and experiences.

What else?  Leah bought an English nursing textbook at a local bookshop to brush up on her medical knowledge.  We ate lunch and dinner at Gad (cheap Egyptian fast food chain with a great selection that includes Western and Egyptian cuisine).

We wandered around a bit at night.  A guy with a bucket of paint came up to Leah and started painting her arm without asking if it was okay.  I guess he was going to give her some kind of painted tattoo and then ask for money.  He got aggressive and grabbed her arm.  We escaped unscathed.  Weird experience…

I keep realizing how fortunate we are.   Since arriving in Egypt we have seen for the first time in a long time the reality of extreme poverty and its devastating effects.  For instance, tonight we saw numerous street people including a beggar woman with a grossly swollen leg, crying street children dressed in filthy rags, and another beggar woman dressed in niqab (popular all-black Islamic outfit that covers a woman’s entire body with the exception of a slit left for her eyes) who looked me directly in the eyes and said in English “please help me” as I quickly passed by.  It happened so quickly and there were so many people and there was so much commotion I didn’t really have time to react but I felt guilty about it afterwards and I really shouldn’t attempt to justify my neglect.  My heart is truly broken for these precious people.  They are hurting, they are suffering, they are dying, and many of them without hope, without Christ.  It is almost inconceivable to me to think that many Christians today somehow find a way to turn a blind eye to the horrendous poverty and overwhelming need in the world.  We need to wake up and to rise up.  We need to stop living for our comforts, our children’s comforts, our stuff, our pension plans, our retirement plans, and all the empty enticements and fading commodities this world has to offer.  It’s all vanity.  It’s all meaningless.         

The Journey Between Jordan : Hidden

 ** Sorry this one is a bit late as we are in Egypt... but check it out**

  

The Journey Between: Hidden

            Jordan for me has been an eye opener into the lives of women in a Muslim country. Although I have encountered women from this faith many times and have been around them, each time I learn more and more.

            In Jordan women are mostly covered. The more strict women wear a head shawl, long shirts that cover their elbows, and a long dress or skirt that comes to their ankles. Some women wear “Western” clothes with their head shawl (still elbows and ankles covered though- perhaps with jeans and a long sleeve shirt). Some women even are covered completely by a burka, all you can see of them is just their eyes through a small slit in their head covering, and most women in burkas even wear gloves on their hands! To not wear some sort of head covering brings about a lot of hassling and comments not only from men but also from other women.

            An American woman we stayed with gave me some insight into this. Her friend, a local Jordanian woman, was surprisingly not forced by her husband to wear the head shawl, and for most of her years she didn’t wear one. It wasn’t until recently that she started to wear one; only for the sake of “shutting up” the women around her who kept nagging her and trying to convince her (out of modesty?) to wear the head covering. Her husband didn’t talk to her for one week. This is one of the few cases where a husband supports his wife’s free identity. It is very common to have a husband who demands the woman to be covered, or, hidden.

            Most women have the “freedom” to uncover their heads in their own homes, only when a male outside of the family is not present. Also at “women’s” meetings they are allowed to dress however they like, with their heads uncovered. When they leave the house (either theirs or their friend’s) they cover back up, headscarves and long coats or dresses are put on.

            I had a very interesting experience when I was in Aqaba, Jordan. The American family we were staying with works for an organization that runs a community center in Aqaba and they have Well Fit programs for men and women. I joined in the Zumba class for women. When we got to the building and up to the workout room I was surprised to see Jordanian women uncovered and in “workout clothes”. It was like they were in another country and had obtained a sense of freedom! They were just like any other women. I felt delighted for them. That in this safe place they could truly be women without the oppression and strict rules forced on them by their culture, religion and country.

            The only sad part was, as soon as the class was over out came the headscarves, long jackets, and dresses. The freedom they experienced was only temporary. For about one hour they could have their hair showing, their arms showing and not be restricted by a tight piece of fabric around their heads and part of their faces.

            I couldn’t imagine having to wear these. However, for some women, I have heard, it becomes an easier way to escape what is happening.  For some women this custom of wearing head coverings and even burkas is a way for them to remain hidden. They can escape reality by hiding behind their “masks”. It is such a sad reality that so many women face. I heard from another American worker in Jordan that a lot of these women are faced with depression, and you can see why. They are oppressed, restricted, hidden, and treated unequally. To find “safety” and “security” from wearing a head or body covering to me seems very sad. I feel so bad and sorry for these women who are hidden from society in a sense. Most of the time you encounter men on the streets. Women are there, but they aren’t as “valued” as the men. It is the men who make the decisions and the men who lead the family. Most women aren’t even allowed to talk to men outside their family!  It is such an oppressive culture-religion.  It makes me sad for the women who are required to live under these conditions.

            Seeing these women brings so many questions to my mind. Why are these rules enforced on them? Why doesn’t someone stop it? What can I do to help? But I feel helpless. As a white-foreigner woman, who compared to them shows way too much immodesty, how can I do anything? Sometimes it is even hard to talk to some of these women, unless they are alone or are in a safe place. I am so appreciative of this organization that is enabling these women with power, freedom and life. They give them opportunities to have a safe place to chat, laugh and share their feelings. They have a business that makes jewelry and they teach the women some of these skills. They teach them English and help them with their studies. If only there were more opportunities like this for the hidden women of Jordan to partake in. But most of all, if only more would see the light of Jesus and the freedom and peace that He brings.

            It is hard for these women to come to faith in Christ because if their husbands or families find out they can be beaten, condemned and even kicked out of the family. I don’t understand how a religion (Islam) can have such oppressing rules and regulations forced upon people. I pray so hard that these women can come to find Jesus Christ as their Lord and Savior. I couldn’t imagine not being able to make my own decisions or being oppressed like they are. It is not right and it is not Biblical at all.

            I continue to thank God for the Christian people that He has placed in these countries so that His light may shine forth. It is such a hard place to be and even more a hard place to be a Christian worker. Especially as a “white” woman in these countries it is hard to see the oppression of the local women. It is also hard because you to some degree have to “comply” to the rules. You can’t go out dressed in a t-shirt and shorts (or worse) and expect to have respect from others. You have to “conform” in a sense to some of the rules in order to gain respect and leeway. You also don’t want to do anything that would offend the women you are trying to work with.

            I really pray for God’s love and mercy to be shown in these restrictive and oppressive places. Especially to the women, who are forced by their culture and religion to conform to the rules in place. As a Canadian, American, European etc. we take so many things for granted, even the simple things like what we can wear and when we can go out. I pray that the women in these oppressive places will come to know Christ’s love for them. There are so many hurting, scared, depressed, lonely and confused women in these Muslim cultures and I pray that Jesus will penetrate their hearts.            

            Please remember these women in your prayers. May you send a prayer out for them today; that they would experience God’s love, peace, joy, and mostly His freedom. Remember today as you go about your day to keep these women in your thoughts! May Heaven hear our prayers and send a mighty wave of God’s love to rest on these women! Also, remember to thank God for the grace and freedom He has shown you, and pray that He would reveal Himself in supernatural and natural ways to the women in Jordan!

May God’s Blessing fall on these women and may they experience a love and peace that only comes from our Father in Heaven!

May 18

May 18

            The days are starting to hazily blend together, and we’re both getting tired of traveling.  It’s fun and incredibly beneficial with regards to expanding and deepening your worldview and perspective, but it’s also draining and sometimes a little lonesome.  It’s difficult to really invest in people’s lives when you’re constantly moving from place to place.  Relationships make life rich, and relationships take a lot of time.  You can’t invest the time if you don’t have, and you’ll never have it if you don’t stop moving.  The desire of our hearts is to live out the Great Commission.  The Great Commission commands us to make disciples, and like I said, this can take a lot of time.  So, all in all, we feel incredibly blessed that God has allowed us to travel, experience new cultures and countries, learn about the world, and learn about ourselves, but, we are thrilled to know that we’ll be in Tanzania shortly laboring alongside fellow brothers and sisters for the cause of Christ…

            Took a train today to Cairo from Luxor – 12 hr. train ride.  The train broke down a couple times so the journey was longer than expected.  People got angry and there were a few minor outbursts between passengers and railway employees but we’re fairly accustomed to this now (we’ve now witnessed more than several rowdy, heated, animated confrontations since we arrived in Egypt).  Aside from that, the train ride wasn’t too bad.  We rode ‘first class’ this time.  On our way to Aswan from Luxor and vice versa we took the third class train – garbage strewn all over the floor, people spitting on the floor, windows open, vendors selling their wares at every train stop – and it was a great experience, but we decided it was too long of a trip to Cairo so we opted for ‘first class,’ which might have passed as third class in Canada though I’m confident people wouldn’t be smoking and spitting tobacco-laced lugies on the floor.

            On the train we met a lively young boy (maybe 10 yrs. old) who sat near us and ate continually until he finally fell asleep about an hour from Cairo.  He was traveling with his uncle who was sitting somewhere in another car.  His uncle checked up on him occasionally and pacified him with chips, pop, cookies and the like but I think the kid was still a little bored so he frequently paced the aisle from car to car and also attempted many MANY times to strike up conversations with Leah and I.  At the end of it all (and the end was a LONG time in coming), we learnt his name (Muhammad – which is easy to remember, especially considering the fact that this seems to be the name given to literally about half the males born in the Middle East).  We also learnt that he is a friendly, smiley, playful little boy and we were reminded yet again that children are pretty much the same the world over. 

            We arrived in Cairo (it’s a mad house!) and took a taxi through a turbulent sea of honking vehicles downtown to an area where there’s some hostels and hotels.  Leah checked one while I stayed with the bags in the car to make sure our taxi driver didn’t leave us stranded and bag-less.  Her report was unfavorable (dark, dingy, and creepy), so we jumped back in the cab and our driver honked his way through the chaos and brought us to another place.  Yes!  We found a decent place and crashed.