April 10

April 10

            Howie and Sue (the couple we met at church on Sunday) kindly offered to drive us to Tiberias (our next stop).  It was a fun road trip.  Howie and Sue are New Yorkers nearly through and through – very boisterous, very animated, and ultimately, very entertaining.  They’re a lot of fun to hang out with.

            We drove north through the mountains along a scenic route that was very green with many trees coming into blossom.  We talked a bit more about the end times and about the precarious situation of Israel (it’s pretty much hemmed in on all sides by hostile Muslim nations).

            We stopped at Capernaum along the way.  Capernaum was the town where Jesus spent a good majority of his time in ministry.  It’s mentioned several times in the Gospels.  Walked around the ruins.  Saw the house where Peter lived.  Looked out at the Sea of Galilee for the first time and realized Jesus probably stood here and glimpsed these same unchanging hills.  I won’t say that the ground we stood on was holy ground, because I believe that the whole earth belongs to God and that He alone is Holy.  On the other hand, I will admit that there was something special about standing in a place where the eternal, immortal, omnipotent, omniscient God incarnate walked and talked and lived.  In a sense, looking out at the Sea of Galilee, the phrase ‘seeing things through God’s eyes’ takes on a whole new meaning.

            Went to one of Jesus’ possible baptism sights along the Jordan River.  Historians are uncertain as to where exactly along the river Jesus was baptized.  Anyways, we saw the Jordan River for the first time.  Where we were there were many people ‘baptizing’ and ‘cleansing’ themselves in the Jordan’s clouded waters.  These people, clad in rented ‘white robes,’ were devoutly gesticulating the sign of the cross and dunking themselves.  I understand the Biblical significance of some of these historical sights, but to my knowledge it seems clearly unbiblical to venerate any place.  We are to venerate a person, Jesus Christ, and no one and nothing else.  But, it’s not my place to judge any individual.  Still, I am going to voice my opinion, and my opinion is – to treat any place as a holy destination worthy of setting out on pilgrimage to catch sight of and experience is nothing short of idolatry...  I enjoyed visiting the Jordan, despite the highly religious-themed gift shop and the slightly mislead journeyers on ‘pilgrimage.’  I thought about all the old gospel songs written about the Jordan and about what the Jordan seems to signify in a lot of Christian literature, hymns, other narratives, etc. [eg. crossing the Jordan (the great divide between life and death) into the Promised Land (Heaven)].  You could say I got a good ‘old time’ feeling and it certainly struck a chord within my soul.

            Found the Kibbutz we’re staying at with Messianic Jewish believers Yaniv and Silvia.  Yaniv got talking with Howie and Sue at which point we realized that God had most definitely orchestrated their meeting.  They’re going to get involved together in ministry.  I don’t know the details exactly.  Christian networking is expanding and deepening in Israel.  This is evident to me even by this divinely orchestrated meeting.  Gospel multiplication is such a miraculous process.

            Said goodbye to our lovely surrogate parents Howie and Sue who so graciously adopted us, however briefly.  Silvia mentioned to me later how it’s so neat to be a believer because as a believer you really do have connections (family) wherever you go.  It’s an international family.  Sometimes you become children.  Sometimes you become parents.  Sometimes you become grandparents.  Sometimes you become brothers or sisters.  Sometimes you become aunts or uncles or cousins.  God makes us different things to different people, but we all have roles to assume to strengthen the body of Christ, and every believer is family.

April 9

April 9(Leah's)

Today was a pretty non-eventful day. I went for another one hour run! And then I did some hand washing with what I thought was dish soap and then later I noticed it was tile floor cleaner. Oh Well! Least they got somewhat clean! We then had our breakfast, Spencer had a special chocolate delight from the bakery and I had eggs, yogurt and baguette. We went to the old City to find Hani’s bookstore, but we couldn’t find it (we found out later that he wasn’t even there, so it was a good thing we didn’t find it). Then we went to the beach, and on the way had a bit of a marital dispute. We felt under attack from the enemy and kept putting it off, so I guess it came to a head then. We resolved our dispute and then after the beach and showers went for falafels. We went to Hani’s to say good-bye to him and his family. We stayed for peppermint tea and chatted. I played some soccer (in the house) with Noor, the second oldest, he loves soccer! We went back to the Church for the last night.

April 8

April 8 (Leah's)

This morning was Church service where we were staying. We got some fresh goods from the bakery and ate our yummy meal at the sea. Today is Palm Sunday in Israel so Hani talked about Jesus coming into Jerusalem. They kids did a special song and it was really cute. They handed out little flower bouquets for everyone. We walked around the inside of the church singing Hosanna to Faten’s piano playing. It was fun! We were suppose to go on a boat ride, but not enough people wanted to go, so we got invited to an American’s couple for lunch. They are from New York, but have been living in Israel for 5 years after God called them here. Susan made us strawberry pancakes and scrambled eggs that we topped with salsa! It was like a taste of home. Her and Howie told us their story and we shared with them ours. He is from Jewish background and so they were able to get Jewish citizenship. We enjoyed a few hours at their house and when we talked about our next destination, and questioned if we could take a bus there, Susan right out offered to take us there if we helped with gas as they had nothing going on that day! Talk about another miracle from God! He is always looking out for us and providing for us in amazing ways! Apparently you have to go through Haifa (the opposite way) to get to Tiberius and driving via car is much simpler. So they are going to pick us up Tuesday morning and we will spend some time touring around the Sea of Galilee and the Jordan River before they drop us off at our next location! God is so good!

After we walked back from their house we stopped to get some more goods from the market and bakery and then we walked to the promenade beach to eat our dinner. Tomorrow is our last full day here. So far we have really enjoyed our time here!

April 7

April 7

            Went with Hani and his family to Haifa to see a Jordanian Christian choir in concert at a pristine concert hall up on the very Biblical Mt. Carmel.  It was neat.  They sort of played through the Easter story using song to communicate.  Again, it’s so neat to be with believers of different nationalities, cultures, languages – we have family all over the world.

April 6

April 6

The Russians invaded via ruthless rapid surprise attack early this morning.  They certainly caught me with my britches down.  I bolted out of bed and rushed to meet them head on…  We’re staying at a Russian church during our time in Akko.  Hani (our Arabic Israeli Christian pastor friend) uses the Russian church sometimes to conduct his services.  He talked with the Russian pastor who is kindly allowing us to stay in the small children’s room where there is a pullout bed for us to sleep…  So, the Russian pastor, his daughter, and another helper rapped noisily on the echoing metal door at 8:30 this morning.  I literally bounded out of bed to open the door for them (we deadbolt the door at night so they can’t open it with the key).  Talked with the pastor’s daughter.  She’s spent her whole life in Israel.  She’s never even been to Russia.  Had yummy chocolate pastries from a bakery down the way and some fruit from an outdoor market for breakfast.

Explored the old city of Akko – narrow cobblestone streets, beige brick buildings, a mosque at its center; very Arabic.  Sort of got gypped by an Egyptian guy at lunchtime.  He suggested I try the shwarma.  I agreed.  He brought me lovely pitas and salads and shwarma meat… and charged me $20 for it!  I guess that was the set price, but I had no clue what I was ordering.  Turns out I was ordering the most expensive thing on the menu.  Went to the beach after lunch.  Did a small workout on some really neat equipment right on the beach that utilizes body weight for resistance.

Prepared for church.  Went with Hani to his small Arabic-speaking church.  The worship was beautiful – evocative, poignant Arabic-Christian praise music with voices and a piano.  Hani preached afterwards.  His wife sat behind us and whispered the English translation in our ears.

We went to their house for a late dinner after service – SUCH an honor.  Still, it shouldn’t surprise me so much.  To be a Christian is to be a part of an international family, or, body of believers.  You don’t have to know people, you just meet them, and you know them.  They’re family.  If you have the last name Christian you likewise have family all over the world…  Hani and his wife have two younger kids (boy and girl) and two teenage boys.  The older boys are fun and smart and speak really good English.  The younger two are rambunctious and sociable and really not shy at all.  Anyway, we had a blast with the kids and great discussions with Hani and his wife.  And it’s midnight and I’m pooped.    

April 5

April 5

            Got up and prayed with David and the team before leaving to Akko (about one and a half hours north of Tel-Aviv on the Mediterranean).  All in all, like I keep saying, our brief stay at the shelter was a period of considerable character growth.  I realized that I’m not nearly as tough or hardy as I thought I was.  I realized that I’m probably much too comfortable.  I realized that I’m incredibly thankful for material comforts.  I realized that it’s easy to idolize comfort.  I realized that sometimes Jesus requires us to abandon our comforts to follow Him wherever He leads (as wondrously demonstrated by David and co.).  Most of all, I realized how privileged I really am.  The women who come to rest at the shelter are battered and bruised, fatigued and stressed, hopeless and forlorn.  Most of them are heavily addicted to drugs.  To feed their habit many of them sell their bodies, sleeping with up to 30 ‘clients’ per day.  Wandering the streets, and totally exposed, many of them are beaten and raped and even mugged by other addicts desperate for a fix.  On the walls in the main room at the shelter some of the ‘regular’s’ pictures are framed and posted.  Many of these women are skin and bones.  They look pretty rough…

            So, God’s grace is amazing.  I can’t say I understand it, but I can say I’m extremely thankful for it.  Not only has Jesus saved me from an eternal Death, but He has also raised me to an eternal, abundant, purposeful life.  I feel so FULL.  There is joy, peace, hope.  I’ve been spared from so much pain and calamity.  Not only am I liberated spiritually, but I have also been blessed materially – born into a loving family in a prosperous nation; good education, world traveler; drugs and alcohol never a problem; no real broken relationships; loyal friends, etc., etc.  I am SO undeserving!  I want to spread this great grace and mercy of Christ to the glory of God wherever I go, whatever I do…

            Took the train to Akko.  Saw lots of conscripted soldiers apparently catching the train home (everybody’s going home for Passover – starts tomorrow).  Most of them are our age – I’d say between 20 and 25.  Most carrying their machine guns strapped loosely around their shoulders.  A lot of people carry guns here – quite militaristic.  Guess that’s understandable.  They’re pretty much always under constant threat.

            Arrived in Akko.  Our friend Hani wasn’t there to pick us up right away so I used a girl’s cell phone and he came shortly after – miscommunication I guess.  He’s actually a pastor.  He took us to the church we’re staying at.  We left our heavy bags and hit the streets to discover our new surroundings.  Akko is a wonderful little place.  It’s easy to get around on foot.  There is a lengthy boardwalk along the water.  Lots of tide pools along the shore.  We saw the rotting skeleton of a sea turtle washed up on the beach – disgusting.

            Had shwarma and falafel for lunch.  Basically just moseyed about and breathed many deep sighs of relief.  Tel-Aviv is a bit too big for me, and I certainly wasn’t ready for the shelter.  God’s still working on me and stretching me.  I do pray for David and co.  for energy and perseverance – it’s such a battleground in that neighborhood, both physically and spiritually…

            Went to a really neat food market in an open warehouse.  Bought lots of beautiful fruits and veggies and prunes to stay more regular.  Got a free lemon and kiwi from one of the vendors we bought from.  Got some pita and hummus and brought that and some of our veggies to the seaside, sat on a bench facing the water, and watched contentedly as the sun underwent its color changes from blazing yellow to burning orange.  It slid down from the top and finally fell nearly unnoticed into someone else’s day.  We watched carefree children play unsupervised and walked along the boardwalk under a glorious full moon.  Now that today’s over I think I finally realize that I’m in Israel. 

April 3-4

April 3-4

            Our journey to Israel was tiring and long, trying and testing.  It’s amazing what God will do to initiate serious character growth within His children.  In my experience, He is much more concerned with making us more like Christ than He is with blessing us materially, which is actually far more blessed than any material thing, since it is eternally profitable. 

            After spending the previous night worrying about our big day of traveling, God showed me yet again how silly my fretting is by providing for us in a miraculous way.  Some friends of the lady we stayed with in Bodrum arrived at the house yesterday evening.  Turns out, one of them is from Istanbul.  Also turns out, she is on the same 8:00 am flight to Istanbul that we’re on.  So, instead of taking an expensive taxi we caught a ride with her to the airport.  We zoomed out, arrived in Istanbul.  Instead of wandering confusedly trying to find a bus to take us across the city to the airport of our departure to Tel-Aviv, she immediately helped us find the right bus.  We made it to Ataturk airport on the European side hassle-free.  We waited for a little bit, then caught our flight to Athens, Greece.  We had a five-hour layover in Athens.  We left the airport and ambled down the side of the freeway to a shopping complex that included an Ikea and a Shell gas station.  We took pictures beside a couple Greek flags flying in the parking lot to document our ‘official’ visit.  Can we say we’ve been to Greece?

            Left for Tel-Aviv.  I can now formally declare my aversion to flying.  It’s cramped and uncomfortable and stuffy and lately, every time the plane lands I’ve experienced this awful, painful sensation in which my head feels like it’s going to burst.  It usually persists for about the last 15 minutes of the flight during the gradual descent.  My eyeballs feel like they’re going to rupture and my head feels like it’s going to explode.  It’s not fun.

            Arrived in Tel-Aviv.  Spent five hours in the airport waiting to catch the 5:16 am train to Hahagana Station near the Door of Hope Shelter for street women and prostitutes – our first stop in Israel.  It felt like an endless wait.  It’s amazing where and when you can fall asleep when you’re tired enough.  During our wait I slumped into sleep in my lap!  Hunched over, I put my head in my hands and plummeted into an agitated sleep.  When I woke up I wiped the drool off my hands and groggily rubbed my eyes and simultaneously decided I also don’t really care for traveling.  I like seeing new places and experiencing new cultures but I don’t really like the whole process of traveling (moving from place to place).  It’s exhausting and it really throws your whole system out of whack.  Also not fun.

            Our American friend who runs the shelter met us at Hahagana Station.  We walked ten minutes from the station to the shelter through one of the roughest looking neighborhoods I’ve ever seen.  Plastic bags and glass and raggedy clothes littered the streets.  Garbage everywhere.  Grungy Graffiti sprayed on dilapidated buildings.  We shuffled exhaustedly down a side street and into a dark and foreboding alleyway.  Our American friend David opened a thick, rusted, creaky metal door and led us down a flight of stairs to a dungeon-like bomb-shelter kind of space/hole in the ground.  He showed us the main room where all the beds are.  This is where prostitutes and street women come to rest.  It’s only open during the day because of a shortage of volunteers, so we had a few hours to sleep.  We settled in to our unkempt beds and attempted to sleep.

And so begins the process of character growth I mentioned previously.  First of all, we both felt sick from lack of sleep.  Second of all, the shelter is really quite filthy, though I’m sure they do the best they can with the resources and volunteers they have.  Thirdly, there were ferocious unrelenting mosquitoes buzzing around on the hunt for blood all over the shelter.  I literally had to cover my whole body in order to escape their fury.  Even my head and part of my face I wrapped in my blanket, and the expert hunters in the pack still managed to find me!  So yeah, I was engaged in mortal combat with pitiless, unyielding mosquitoes until I finally fell headlong into another troubled sleep. 

We woke up at 8:30 and moved into another room with a pullout bed before the girls would start to arrive at about 10:00.  We slept till 11:30 in our designated murky cell, woke up, and decided to make a run for it.  We stumbled clumsily up the stairs and into the light.  In spite of our sluggishness we survived the morning and also managed to escape.

We explored Tel-Aviv.  It’s sort of like Israel’s New York City – very urbane, very cultured, very artistic, very modern, very liberal.  Can’t say it’s my favorite place though, even though my experience of it was tainted by our morning at the shelter and also by my jet-lag sickness, which included a pounding headache that didn’t seem to want to go away.  We walked to the water and sat on the beach for quite some time.  We were in the no-swimming section so it wasn’t quite as crowded but we also moseyed over to the swimming section, which was packed with people on beach chairs lounging under umbrellas.  Anyways, our first glimpse of the Mediterranean was a certainly a welcome one.  There seems to be an outline of sparkling azure all along the coasts wherever you go in this part of the world.  Beautiful!

Tried our first falafel – delicious!  Then we unenthusiastically proceeded back to the shelter before dusk and settled into bed.  Surprisingly we slept quite well, despite the fact that I caught my first sight of a few cockroaches before bedtime.  Going to have to get used to those – yuck!